The voyage across Goa‘s mighty River Mandovi begins late in the evening in fading light. Port of embarkation: Ribandar. Destination: the lost island of Divar. Total sailing time is expected to be 5 mins and 25 secs.

Ferry at Ribandar, Goa<br>5D Mark II, 14L II

Ferry at Ribandar, Goa
5D Mark II, 14L II


Capt. Emidio Fernandes is at the helm.

Capt. Emidio Fernandes<br>5D Mark II, 14L II

Capt. Emidio Fernandes
5D Mark II, 14L II


Midway we encounter unexpected turbulence. A barge loaded with the droppings of Goa‘s ‘mineral farmers’ (aka miners, the destroyers of Goa‘s environment) is headed straight for our ship.

Barge on River Mandovi, Goa<br>5D Mark II, 24-105L

Barge on River Mandovi, Goa
5D Mark II, 24-105L


Summoning all his experience, Capt. Fernandes skillfully dodges the incoming missile and your friendly photographer lives to shoot another day.

On the way to Divar<br>5D Mark II, 14L II

On the way to Divar
5D Mark II, 14L II

  • Suraj Sakhardande - June 11, 2015 - 2:28 pm

    Hi Rajan.
    I have created a android app called as Goychim ferry and have a facebook page for the same. Its a app designed and dedicated for ferry commuters.

    Can i share some of the pics from you blog (ferry-crossing-on-the-mandovi) in the page (by mentioning your blog post as the source for the picture)? I found some cool photos in here.

    Please reply me back if its fine for you.

    Thanks in advance.ReplyCancel

    • Rajan Parrikar - June 13, 2015 - 2:59 am


      Thanks for writing. You may share the link to my blog post. However, if you wish to use the photos themselves, the license is available for purchase.


  • […] visit to the island of Divar entails taking the ferry across the River Mandovi. See an earlier post for a heroic […]ReplyCancel

  • gaspar almeida - January 3, 2010 - 3:20 am

    Excellent pictures and photography.


  • Arun - December 13, 2009 - 8:08 am

    This is a great help in understanding the use of wide angle lenses.ReplyCancel

  • Sanjeev - December 9, 2009 - 11:21 pm

    O-P-T-I-M-I-S-E-D ! Both – the 14L and humour.
    I used to wonder if one can really use the 14L for regular shooting.. now I dont.ReplyCancel

Update: Tulsidas Borkar was awarded the Padmashree award by the Indian government in 2016.

Earlier this week I called on Tulsidas Borkar, the virtuoso of the harmonium, at his home in Mumbai. He received me warmly. We reminisced about the great Goan musicians of the 20th C and their disproportionate contributions to Indian Classical Music. He then pulled out his harmonium and launched into an impromptu recital.

Tulsidasbab was born in 1934 in the village of Borim located in Goa‘s Ponda taluka (the same village gave us the poetic genius Bakibab Borkar). He had the privilege of receiving training for 10 years from Madhukar Pednekar – also from Goa, from the village of Malpem in Pednem taluka – perhaps the greatest harmonium wizard of the 20th C.

In the course of a long and distinguished career, Tulsidasbab has provided harmonium support to most of the leading Hindustani vocalists of our time – Amir Khan, Bhimsen Joshi, Mallikarjun Mansur, Kishori Amonkar, Jitendra Abhisheki, Basavraj Rajguru, to name a few. Even more important, he has produced the next line of musicians, with several of his students now counted among the top tier harmonium players in the country.

In 2005 Tulsidasbab was awarded the Sangeet Natak Akademi Award by the then President of India A.P.J. Abdul Kalam.

In the late 1970s and through the 1980s, the frequently-played filler interlude in between programmes on AIR-Panjim was a musical ‘button’ in Raga Tilak Kamod (with a dash of Raga Des) performed by Tulsidas Borkar.

Tulsidas Borkar, harmonium maestro<br>Canon 5D Mark II, 85L II

Tulsidas Borkar, harmonium maestro
5D Mark II, 85L II

Tulsidas Borkar, at his home in Mumbai<br>Canon 5D Mark II, 24-105L

Tulsidas Borkar, at his home in Mumbai
5D Mark II, 24-105L

Harmonium maestro Tulsidas Borkar<br>5D Mark II, 14L II

Harmonium maestro Tulsidas Borkar
5D Mark II, 14L II

  • Premanand - May 6, 2015 - 3:40 pm

    I think now I understand the third photograph (and with that I understand one of the uses of wide angles). Panditji’s hand is given a slightly exaggerated perspective as compared to the keyboard and even panditji himself. It is the hand/fingers of the “pandit” that creates the music/magic, the “vādya” is just the instrument (pun intended).ReplyCancel

  • Amar Patil - August 11, 2012 - 4:02 am

    Excellent !ReplyCancel

  • ram pandit - October 12, 2011 - 2:38 pm

    KHUP CHAAN….!!!

    rasikanvar jadu karnari bote…ReplyCancel

  • Sudhir Nayak - March 30, 2010 - 6:01 am

    Excellent pictures of Borkar Guruji! Some of the best of his many photos that have been clicked till now.ReplyCancel

  • Sanjeev - December 6, 2009 - 2:03 am

    Excellent !ReplyCancel

  • Ajay Divakaran - December 5, 2009 - 6:53 pm

    Beautiful pictures that capture the maestro in a natural way.ReplyCancel

  • Arun - December 5, 2009 - 12:06 pm

    Very nice! The last one, with the 14mm, wow, what a use of the lens! You were probably at the minimum focus distance of about 8 inches? I hope you send Borkarji a set of prints. He should be delighted with them.ReplyCancel

I was loitering in Korgaon in northern Goa when I descried the village barber Apa Korgaonkar in action. Armed with my wide angle 14 mm lens, I decided to go head-to-head with Apa’s weapons.

For 15 minutes I watched the proceedings, with my lens barely 8″ or so away.

Village barber Apa Korgaonkar in Korgaon, Goa<br>5D Mark II, 14L II

Village barber Apa Korgaonkar in Korgaon, Goa
5D Mark II, 14L II

Village barber Apa Korgaonkar in Korgaon, Goa<br>5D Mark II, 14L II

Village barber Apa Korgaonkar in Korgaon, Goa
5D Mark II, 14L II

Village barber Apa Korgaonkar in Korgaon, Goa<br>5D Mark II, 14L II

Village barber Apa Korgaonkar in Korgaon, Goa
5D Mark II, 14L II

  • […] had a close shave with the barber of Korgaon sometime ago. Today we meet Suresh Hiroji, the tailor of Korgaon, an enchanting village in north […]ReplyCancel

  • Arun - December 3, 2009 - 10:47 pm

    Very nice use of a wide-angle!ReplyCancel

  • Roland - December 2, 2009 - 9:26 am

    What about the gratis ‘maleesh’ that ended the haircut and shave that was a Bombay speciality? Do they do it in Goa too?ReplyCancel

  • vnm - December 2, 2009 - 6:53 am

    Are traditional barbers in Goa medicine-men as well?ReplyCancel

  • Sanjeev - December 2, 2009 - 6:03 am

    paisa vasool !
    # 1 is # 1ReplyCancel

The apposite positioning of the sun at this time of the year vis-à-vis the cemetery cross in the village of Saligao, Goa, made possible the following composition. In early November, a lingering tropical depression over the Arabian Sea thwarted me for almost 2 weeks. Once the skies cleared, I staked out the location – the edge of a sloughy field – for a number of days and managed to score varied interpretations of the setting, some of which I shall post by and by.

Note: Intruding power lines have been cloned out in Photoshop.

Sunset in Saligao, Goa<br>5D Mark II, 300L f/4

Sunset in Saligao, Goa
5D Mark II, 300L f/4

Sunset in Saligao, Goa<br>5D Mark II, 70-200L f/2.8 IS

Sunset in Saligao, Goa
5D Mark II, 70-200L f/2.8 IS

  • Jaspal Singh - March 29, 2012 - 11:33 pm

    Amazing pics…Goa is truly an amazing place…ReplyCancel

  • Vikram F - December 22, 2010 - 7:49 pm

    great detail!ReplyCancel

  • […] back I posted photographs of the cemetery cross in the Goan village of Saligao framed against the setting sun. As mentioned there, I had to stake out the location for a number of days before I scored that […]ReplyCancel

  • Michael Ali - December 13, 2009 - 6:44 am

    Wonderful pictures. Keep up the good work, Rajan.

    Warm regardsReplyCancel

  • Sabbas Rufus Alphonso - December 6, 2009 - 3:45 am

    hey Rajan,this is Sabbas from parra towers parra.really amazing shot that uv n me have something in common as i to like photographing sunsets.e-mail me ur cell no as at d moment am in in touchReplyCancel

  • Rocky Fernandes - December 5, 2009 - 11:49 pm

    You are doing wonderful job for us Goans. YOur photography is excellent and bring us closer to real life peace.

    Mr. Rajan, if you have time, kindly visit Nuem, Cabo de Rama, for giving us more pictures of our beautiful GOA.ReplyCancel

  • Isabella Rebello-Hamm - December 1, 2009 - 3:09 am

    Ah, my home, my beautiful home!

  • Mabel Santos - November 30, 2009 - 2:54 pm

    Thank you Rajan, for this outstandingly beautiful photograph. Would you consider doing something just as exquisite for my village church: St.Anne’s in Parra, Bardez. Even better, you could do a book on ‘Churches and Scenes of Goa.’ I would be the first to buy it after seeing this excellent photograph of Saligao church. Mabel SantosReplyCancel

  • Joel - November 30, 2009 - 5:14 am

    Lucky are those who have left ahead of us, and live eternally in such wondrous surroundings, quite undisturbed… at least until another one like them arrives to share their company.ReplyCancel

  • Con - November 30, 2009 - 2:50 am

    Thank you Rajan…….you potray my birthplace village
    as I have never seen before.
    A masterpiece…….

  • Xanno Moidecar - November 29, 2009 - 3:10 pm

    Beautiful. Just beautiful. And very clever.

    Can’t wait for the Moira Church to be so graced.

    Xanno MoidecarReplyCancel

  • JoeGoaUk - November 29, 2009 - 1:54 pm

    Very beautiful

  • Felix Fernandes - November 29, 2009 - 1:08 pm

    Beautifully captured on film. Congrats, and thanks.ReplyCancel

  • Arun - November 29, 2009 - 10:14 am

    Great work!

    I prefer the second composition; not sure why. It has more depth and is more “dynamic”. I speculate that the line of coconut treetops starting with the very tall one, and the fence form a pair of converging lines drawing the eye in to center of interest. Pace Sanjeev, I would not go for more contrast.ReplyCancel

  • jc - November 29, 2009 - 9:25 am

    I prefer the second picture, possibly because it has more foliage in it.

    But …a nice photograph. Needless to say ….you waited for the parallax.ReplyCancel

  • Sanjeev - November 29, 2009 - 9:17 am

    picture perfect !
    I would go for more contrast even if it means sacrificing details in the foliage area.ReplyCancel

The charming Panjim Inn in the Fontainhas quarter of Panjim, partially illuminated by the soft light of the rising sun, stands refulgent amid the swamp of RCC* atrocities now racking our once-beautiful city.

* RCC = Reinforced Cement Concrete

Panjim Inn in Fontainhas, Panjim, Goa

Panjim Inn in Fontainhas, Panjim
5D Mark II, TS-E 17L

  • Tony de Sa - November 21, 2009 - 6:22 am

    Superb clarity!ReplyCancel

  • Ana Maria Goswami - November 20, 2009 - 6:37 pm

    Excellant photography and what wonderful colour!ReplyCancel

  • Arun - November 20, 2009 - 6:16 pm

    What colors!ReplyCancel