The 17th C. Church of Nossa Señhora Assunta in the village of Velsão is ensconced in a swath of palm trees. This soothing sight typifies the landscape of coastal Goa. I made several early morning rounds spread over many months to the hillock at Cuelim until I got the lighting just right.
Not long ago Goa had some of the finest fresh produce in the world, sustained for hundreds of years by the traditional farming methods of the hardy Gaudo community. The Gaude were among the first settlers in Goa and are thought to be Austric in origin.
Today the situation for Goan farming is dire and the Gaude face a grim future. Fertile fields are being wiped out overnight, taken over by builders in collusion with local politicos. Delicious local produce has now made way for mass imports from outside the state. The Gaude have no clout to resist the forces leading to their demise. As can be seen in the photos below, the tenacious few that persist have been pushed to the periphery – literally – of the market in Panjim (and other towns).