Rajan Parrikar Photo Blog

The Vetals of Goa: Sanvordem

The series continues.

The next chapter in the Vetals of Goa theme features the deity from Sanvordem. My introduction from the first post in the series is excerpted below:

 
From The Vetals of Goa: Amona

The ancient deity of Vetal, its iconography and associated rituals, are important elements of, and unique to, Goa‘s Hindu tradition. The deity was most likely worshipped by the Austric Gauda tribe, Goa‘s earliest settlers, and later embraced by the Nath Panthis between the 10th & 13th C. Eventually it came to be absorbed into the larger Hindu pantheon.

A mere 50 or so out of the hundreds of ancient Vetal sites in Goa survived the iconoclasm by the Portuguese. Every single site in the Bardez and Tiswadi talukas was destroyed. For instance, before the foreign invasion, the village of Taleigao was a strong centre of Vetal worship, but I doubt you will find a single current resident of the area with any memory of this past.

The Vetal praxis serves to define the circumference of Goa‘s cultural influence which extends beyond its current geographic borders. Vetal worship is prevalent in the Sindhudurg district of southern Maharashthra and unsurprisingly, the people there have strong emotional and cultural bonds to Goa.

Traditionally the images of Vetal were cast out in the open with provision for a simple roof overhead. After all, as the village protector, he was expected to be out on his nightly patrol. To this day, offerings of footwear are made at his temples. Buffalo sacrifice was once common but is now far less so. Fowl and goat are still routinely offered.

The evolution of the depiction of the Vetal image itself is interesting. Traditionally, he preferred to go au naturel, and so the idols were displayed that way. But nowadays the ‘naked truth’ makes people somewhat uncomfortable, and therefore in several temples he has reluctantly taken to wearing the dhoti. (Reminds me of Bertrand Russell who wrote that whoever coined the phrase “the naked truth” must have perceived the connection that nakedness is shocking to most people, and so is truth.)

During the years 2006-2008, I set off on Vetal‘s spoor and checked off 45 of the surviving old sites in Goa (around 5 still to go).

 

For an introduction to the Vetal mythos, see this. All the posts in this series are consolidated here.

 
Vetal of Sanvordem, Goa

Offering by poojari Laxmiprasad Ghaisas
5D Mark III, Zeiss ZE 50 f/2 MP

 
Vetal of Sanvordem, Goa

Vetal of Sanvordem, Goa
5D Mark III, Zeiss ZE 50 f/2 MP

 
Shobha Parab at Vetal temple in Sanvordem

Shobha Parab, temple sweeper
5D Mark III, 70-200L f/2.8 IS II

 
 
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