Category Archives: Iceland

At the glacier’s edge. Jökulheimar lies on the western boundary of the mighty Vatnajökull glacier. Its glacial tongue Tungnaárjökull is the source of Tungnaá, one of Iceland‘s iconic rivers. Getting to Jökulheimar entails a long drive traversing a black volcanic desert in the south-central Highlands. We set out on a day of extreme weather – […]

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First dusting of the season. The site of Úlfljótsvatnskirkja dates back to the settlement era, the current structure was built in 1914. The provenance is explained below by Börkur Hrólfsson (“Emperor of Northern Lights”): Úlfur is wolf and ljótur is today ugly, but in the old days it meant facial expressions. So the first lawspeaker […]

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Earth on boil. At the base of the mountain Námafjall in north Iceland is one of the most infernal sights on the planet: a smorgasbord of fumaroles, solfataras, boiling mud pools, slopes of red clay, colourful patches of mineral deposits and geometry in clay. The Earth here is literally seething and to add to the […]

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